
Base: arrive in Sarria the day before, stamp your credencial and sleep there. Today’s stage to Portomarín is about 22 km, or 5 to 6 hours of walking with stops; the path itself is free. Cafés along the way open early, from about 7 a.m. in season. Pace: steady, gentle ups and downs through farmland and woods, with a long descent at the end into Portomarín.
Leaving Sarria
Start at first light, climbing the old stone stairs through Sarria past the churches and over the medieval bridge on the edge of town. The yellow arrows and granite waymarks with a scallop shell show the way all the way to Santiago.
The first hours pass through hamlets of stone houses, oak woods and fields of cows. Stop for coffee and a slice of tortilla in a café; the first one after Sarria is a good place for your first stamp of the day.
Insider tip: look for the waymark near Morgade that reads 100 km to Santiago; it is covered in notes and signatures, and a photo there marks the real start.
The middle of the stage
The path rolls through small villages like Ferreiros and Mercadoiro, with stone granaries called hórreos raised on legs beside the farmhouses. Shaded lanes alternate with open fields.
Walk at your own pace. Solo walkers fall naturally into short conversations and then apart again; there is no pressure to keep up with anyone.
The traditional greeting is “Buen Camino”, and you will hear it many times a day from walkers, farmers and café owners. Return it with a smile; it is the easiest way to feel part of the road.
The descent to Portomarín
The stage ends with a long, steep descent to the Belesar reservoir and a long bridge into Portomarín. The old town was moved stone by stone up the hill when the valley was flooded for the dam in the 1960s.
Climb the stairs into town and find the fortified Romanesque church of San Nicolás in the main square, rebuilt in its new place. Allow time to sit in the square and watch other walkers arrive.
An evening in Portomarín
Where to eat: the restaurants around the main square in Portomarín, where most offer a pilgrim menu with a starter, a main, dessert, bread and wine.
Look for torta de Portomarín, a local almond cake, in the bakeries. Wash your socks, stretch and go to bed early; tomorrow is the longest stage.
Sarria → Morgade (the 100 km stone): about 12 km. Morgade → Portomarín: about 10 km. Total about 22 km, 5 to 6 hours on foot with stops.
Where to stay
- The Xunta public albergue in Portomarín — simple shared dorms run by the Galician government, first come first served for walkers with a credencial.
- A pensión or casa rural in Portomarín — a private room with your own bathroom; book a day or two ahead in spring and autumn.
Dinner: a pilgrim menu on the main square in Portomarín.
Tomorrow: Palas de Rei, about 25 km on foot.
Bad-weather plan
In heavy rain, keep the walking but cut the stops short; shelter for coffee in the cafés of Ferreiros or Mercadoiro, and in Portomarín wait out the evening in the church and the bars on the square.
Stay: Portomarín · Anchor: the 100 km waymark · free; about 22 km
Good to know: Walking alone is common and generally safe here; still, tell someone at home each morning where you plan to sleep, and keep your phone charged.
























