
Base: Ajo, all three nights. Fly into Tucson and pick up a rental car; there is no public transportation to the monument, and the NPS advises checking that your rental agreement allows dirt roads, because Ajo Mountain Drive and Puerto Blanco Drive are unpaved. From Tucson, Highway 86 runs west through the Tohono O’odham Nation to the small town of Why; Highway 85 then runs north to Ajo and south to the monument. The Ajo Plaza is free to walk. Pace: easy: one long, quiet drive, a late lunch, a big shop for water and a slow walk around the plaza.
Breakfast in Tucson and the road west
Where to eat: start at 5 Points Market & Restaurant at 756 S. Stone Avenue in Tucson’s Barrio Viejo, open for breakfast and brunch from 9 a.m., Thursday to Monday. On a Tuesday or Wednesday, eat at your hotel or near the airport and pick up something to go.
Then head west on Highway 86 (Ajo Way). The road crosses the Tohono O’odham Nation, a long, open stretch of desert with few services, so leave Tucson with a full tank and water in the car. You will pass the turn for Kitt Peak on the way; it is saved for the drive back on Day 4.
Expert tip: fill up again in Why. The NPS lists the closest gas stations to the monument in Why, 22 miles north of the visitor center, and in Lukeville at the border, and there is none inside the monument, so topping up in Why every time you pass saves a nervous drive later.
Lunch and supplies at Olsens
Where to eat: Olsens Patio Cafe, inside Olsens Marketplace IGA at 1961 Ajo Gila Bend Highway, grills from 10 a.m. and serves daily specials after 11:30 a.m.: burgers, fried chicken and Curley coffee, with seats on the patio.
Then shop. Olsens, family-owned since 1992, calls itself the nearest full-service grocery store to the monument, and the NPS names Ajo as the nearest town with one. Buy a case of water: the park asks every visitor to carry at least one gallon per person per day, and there is no water anywhere along Ajo Mountain Drive. Add salty trail snacks, fruit and anything you want for a picnic. The store also has two ChargePoint stations if your rental is electric.
The historic Ajo Plaza
Drive the few minutes to the Ajo Plaza, which its association calls the only fully realized City Beautiful town center in Arizona: Spanish Colonial Revival arcades on two sides of a palm-shaded central park, with a train depot about a century old at one end. It was laid out for a copper-mining town, and the old open pit is still part of the landscape around Ajo.
Walk the arcades, read the plaques, then find the white, mission-style Immaculate Conception Church a short walk from the green. It is the same view as the illustrated card above, best in the last hour of light, when the plaster turns gold and the palms throw long shadows.
Settle in and an early dinner
Check in at the Sonoran Desert Inn & Conference Center, a restored 1940s school building on the historic Curley School campus, a few steps from the plaza. If you want breakfast at the inn on Day 4, order it by 8 p.m. the night before. Campers can drive on to Twin Peaks Campground, 1.5 miles from the visitor center, and book a site ahead on Recreation.gov.
Dinner is at Agave Grill at 1051 Solana Avenue, a local Mexican and American restaurant that closes early, so plan to arrive by about 6:30 p.m. Ajo goes quiet early; take the short walk back to your room under a sky that is already darker than most cities ever see.
Where to eat and stop
- Breakfast · 5 Points Market & Restaurant (Tucson) — breakfast and brunch at 756 S. Stone Avenue in Barrio Viejo; Thursday to Monday from 9 a.m.
- Lunch · Olsens Patio Cafe — the grill inside Olsens Marketplace IGA, 1961 Ajo Gila Bend Highway; from 10 a.m., daily specials after 11:30 a.m.
- Dinner · Agave Grill — Mexican and American plates at 1051 Solana Avenue, Ajo; dinner hours are short and vary, so call ahead.
- Quick stop (fuel): Fuel in Why — the NPS lists Why, at the junction of Highways 86 and 85, as one of the two closest places to buy gas.
- Quick stop (other): Historic Ajo Plaza — Spanish Colonial Revival arcades, a central park and the old train depot; free to walk.
Tucson → Why on Highway 86: about 2 hours. Why → Ajo on Highway 85: about 15 minutes. Olsens → the Ajo Plaza: about 5 minutes by car. The plaza → the Sonoran Desert Inn: a short walk. Ajo → the Kris Eggle Visitor Center (for tomorrow): about 45 minutes.
Where to stay
- Sonoran Desert Inn & Conference Center (Ajo) — a nonprofit inn in a restored 1940s school, a short walk from the plaza; guest breakfast can be ordered the night before.
- Twin Peaks Campground (in the monument) — or a site in the monument’s campground, 1.5 miles from the visitor center; reserve on Recreation.gov.
Dinner: at Agave Grill, 1051 Solana Avenue; it closes early, so go by about 6:30 p.m.
Tomorrow: the visitor center and Ajo Mountain Drive, about 45 minutes south.
Bad-weather plan
Rain on Day 1? Winter rain is possible from mid-December through January. The plaza’s covered arcades keep you dry, and the Cabeza Prieta refuge visitor center in Ajo (planned for Day 3), with its exhibits and 3D map, can move to this afternoon.
Stay: Ajo base · Anchor: the historic plaza · fill the tank and buy water
Good to know: Fill the tank in Tucson and again in Why. The highway across the Tohono O’odham Nation has long stretches without services, and cell coverage drops out in places.























