Natchitoches, pronounced NACK-a-tish, was founded in 1714 and is the oldest permanent European settlement in the Louisiana Purchase territory. This small city of about 18,000 people sits on Cane River Lake in northwest Louisiana, with a brick Front Street, iron balconies and a 33-block historic district. Every holiday season it hosts the Christmas Festival of Lights. The first day stays on foot along Front Street and the riverbank.
Front Street on foot
Where to eat: Shrimp and grits at Cane River Commissary on Front Street.
Start on Front Street, a brick-paved street of 1800s storefronts with lacy iron balconies that faces Cane River Lake. Walk slowly past the shops, galleries and the old Kaffie-Frederick General Mercantile, which has operated since 1863 and still sells hardware, cookware and gifts. Look up at the balconies and the details on the buildings, then wander a block back to see the old churches and Creole cottages of the historic district.
Meat pies at Lasyone's
Where to eat: Natchitoches meat pie plate with dirty rice at Lasyone's.
Natchitoches is famous for its meat pies, half-moon pastries filled with spiced beef and pork and fried until crisp. Lasyone's Meat Pie Restaurant on Second Street has made them since 1967 and helped make the dish the town's signature. Share a meat pie plate with dirty rice and a slice of Cane River cream pie, a light layered dessert. It is a casual lunch in a small room full of locals.
The downtown riverbank
Walk down the stone steps to the riverbank along Cane River Lake, where a brick path follows the water below Front Street. In late fall the trees turn rust and gold, and during the festival season the riverbank is lined with millions of lights and set pieces, from angels to riverboats, that glow at night. Find a bench and watch the slow water, then walk back up as the light softens.
The Festival of Lights after dark
Where to eat: Hot cider and pralines from a festival stand.
After sunset, the Christmas Festival of Lights turns on, with more than 300,000 lights and over a hundred lit set pieces along the riverbank and across the water. On festival Saturdays from late November through December, fireworks burst over the lake and crowds fill Front Street. On weeknights it is calmer and lovely for a slow walk. Take a riverboat ride or a horse-drawn carriage if you want to see the lights from another angle.
Where to eat and stop
- Breakfast · Cane River Commissary — Front Street Why here: A riverside cafe with an easy morning menu.
- Lunch · Lasyone's Meat Pie Restaurant — Second Street Why here: The family kitchen that made the meat pie famous.
- Dinner · Mariner's Restaurant — Sibley Lake Why here: A lakeside dining room just outside downtown.
- Quick stop (treat): Kaffie-Frederick General Mercantile — Front Street Why here: A treat from a general store open since 1863.
Natchitoches is about an hour south of Shreveport and about four hours northwest of New Orleans, just off Interstate 49. Park once in the historic district and walk Front Street, the riverbank and the lights.
Where to stay
- A bed and breakfast in the historic district — Natchitoches has dozens of bed and breakfasts in old Creole and Victorian homes within a few blocks of Front Street, many with balconies over the river and walkable to the lights.
- A small hotel on or near Front Street — A few small hotels and inns sit on or just off Front Street, steps from the riverbank, the shops and the fireworks, with easy parking.
Dinner: Blackened catfish at Mariner's on Sibley Lake.
Tomorrow: Drive the Cane River National Heritage Area to Oakland and Magnolia plantations and Melrose, and eat at a country cafe.
Bad-weather plan
On a rainy day, visit the Louisiana Sports Hall of Fame and Northwest Louisiana History Museum, browse the mercantile and watch the lights from a covered balcony.
Front Street · Lasyone's · The riverbank · Festival of Lights
Good to know: Festival weekends fill every room in town months ahead; reserve as soon as your dates are firm and check minimum stays.
