
Touch down at Fiumicino (FCO) and ride the Leonardo Express to Roma Termini — €14 (~$16), 32 minutes, no stops, departing every 15–30 minutes. Buy tickets at the arrivals-hall machines or the Trenitalia app before boarding. A taxi to anywhere inside the Aurelian Walls is a fixed €50 (~$56) fare by law — confirm "tariffa fissa" before loading bags. Zip phones and wallets at Termini — it's Rome's pickpocket capital.
Check in near Termini or Monti — flat, central, metro-connected, which beats charm on night one. Drop bags and resist the bed — daylight beats jet lag faster than any nap. Late afternoon, cross Ponte Sisto into Trastevere for the evening passeggiata, wander the lanes around Santa Maria in Trastevere (free; 12th-century gold mosaics worth five quiet minutes), then dinner at a neighborhood trattoria.
For the kids, make it a gelato crawl: one small cone per stop, three stops, nobody naps. Fatamorgana (natural ingredients) and Fior di Luna (Via della Lungaretta) are the two worth seeking out. Book nothing big today — if the Colosseum is tomorrow, sleep is the plan.
The plan
- Land at FCO; Leonardo Express to Termini (€14/~$16, 32 min) or fixed-fare taxi (€50/~$56).
- Check in near Termini or Monti; rest, then Ponte Sisto → Trastevere lanes.
- Evening passeggiata + three-stop gelato crawl; trattoria dinner by 8 p.m.
Where to stay
- Hotel Santa Maria (Trastevere) — quiet courtyard, family rooms.
- Hotel Artemide (Via Nazionale) — proper quad rooms two blocks from Termini; easy Day 4 train.
- Monti Palace Hotel — rooftop with Colosseum views; flat walk to the Forum tomorrow.
If the flight was brutal, skip Trastevere and sleep. The neighborhood will still be there tomorrow — jet lag wins every fight on day one.


















































