Galveston is a barrier island city of about 53,000 people on the Texas Gulf Coast, about an hour south of Houston. In the late 1800s it was one of the richest cities in Texas, and its Victorian storefronts, grand homes and busy harbor still show that past. The first day stays on foot in the Strand Historic District and along the harbor, then finishes with seafood by the Gulf.
The Strand Historic District
Where to eat: Beignets and coffee at Mod Coffeehouse on Postoffice Street.
Start on the Strand, Galveston's old commercial street, lined with iron-front buildings from the 1800s that once held banks, cotton brokers and wholesale houses. Today they hold shops, galleries, candy stores and cafes. Walk the Strand and Postoffice Street slowly, look up at the cast-iron facades and the ornate cornices, and stop into the Galveston Railroad Museum in the old Santa Fe depot if trains interest you.
The tall ship Elissa
Where to eat: Shrimp po'boy at Shrimp 'N Stuff Downtown.
Walk to Pier 21 on the harbor to board the Elissa, an 1877 iron-hulled sailing ship that still sails and is one of the oldest ships of its kind afloat. Climb below deck to see the cargo hold and crew quarters, then look up at the masts and rigging. The Texas Seaport Museum next door tells the story of Galveston's port and the immigrants who arrived here, often called the Ellis Island of the West.
A harbor walk at Pier 21
After the ship, stroll Pier 21 and the harborfront, where shrimp boats, pilot boats and tugs come and go. Watch for dolphins in the channel; harbor boat rides in the afternoon often spot them. Sit on a bench with the cranes and container ships across the water and the smell of salt in the air. In late fall the light turns gold over the harbor by four in the afternoon, a lovely time to linger.
Dinner on the Seawall
Where to eat: Pecan-crusted snapper at Gaido's on the Seawall.
For dinner, drive or walk to Seawall Boulevard, a ten-mile promenade along the Gulf built after the Great Storm of 1900. Gaido's has served seafood here since 1911, with Gulf views from big windows and a classic menu of shrimp, snapper and oysters. After dinner, walk part of the Seawall in the dark with the sound of the waves below and the lights of the old hotels behind you.
Where to eat and stop
- Breakfast · Mod Coffeehouse — Postoffice Street Why here: A relaxed downtown coffeehouse in an old building.
- Lunch · Shrimp 'N Stuff Downtown — Strand area Why here: A beloved local counter for Gulf shrimp.
- Dinner · Gaido's — Seawall Boulevard Why here: A family-run seafood restaurant on the Gulf since 1911.
- Quick stop (treat): La King's Confectionery — The Strand Why here: An old-fashioned candy store where taffy is pulled in the window.
Galveston is about an hour south of Houston on Interstate 45, across the causeway. Park once near the Strand and walk the district and Pier 21; the Seawall is a short drive or a long walk south.
Where to stay
- A historic hotel near the Strand or the Seawall — Galveston has grand old hotels on Seawall Boulevard facing the Gulf and smaller historic hotels near the Strand, so you can walk to dinner and the harbor without moving the car.
- A Victorian bed and breakfast in the East End — Several bed and breakfasts sit in restored Victorian homes in the East End Historic District, with porches, gardens and quiet streets for evening walks.
Dinner: Pecan-crusted snapper at Gaido's on the Seawall.
Tomorrow: Walk the Victorian East End, visit Bishop's Palace and spend the evening at the Festival of Lights or Dickens on the Strand.
Bad-weather plan
On a rainy day, spend longer in the Texas Seaport Museum, the Railroad Museum and the Strand's shops and galleries, and take an early dinner somewhere warm downtown.
The Strand · The Elissa · Pier 21 · The Seawall
Good to know: Gulf winds can turn a mild day chilly, especially along the Seawall at night; bring a windproof layer.
