Astoria sits on a hillside where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean, in the far northwest corner of Oregon, about two hours from Portland. Founded as a fur trading post in 1811, it is the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies. Spend the first day close to the water and on the hill above it, with the maritime museum, a walk on the river and the view from the Astoria Column.
The Columbia River Maritime Museum
Where to eat: Coffee and a pastry downtown before the museum opens.
Start at the Columbia River Maritime Museum on the waterfront, where exhibits tell the story of the river bar, the ships wrecked there and the pilots and Coast Guard crews who still guide vessels across it. Big windows look straight onto the river traffic, and the lightship Columbia is moored outside for a walk-through visit. Allow a good two hours here, as it sets up everything else you will see.
Walk the Riverwalk
Where to eat: Fish and chips for lunch at a spot on the river.
Walk east along the Astoria Riverwalk, a flat path that follows the old rail line beside the river past cannery piers, small shops and working docks. Large cargo ships pass close by on their way to and from the ocean, and the long Astoria-Megler Bridge stretches across the river toward Washington. Near the East Mooring Basin, listen for the barking sea lions that gather on the docks for much of the year.
Climb the Astoria Column
In the afternoon, drive or walk up Coxcomb Hill to the Astoria Column, a 125-foot tower built in 1926 and wrapped in a spiral frieze of scenes from the area's history. Climb the 164 steps inside for a sweeping view of the river mouth, the bridge, the forested hills and, on a clear day, the Pacific. Buy a small wooden glider in the gift shop and send it off from the top.
Victorian streets and the Flavel House
Where to eat: A drink at a brewery on the river before dinner.
Wander back down through the hillside neighborhoods, where hundreds of Victorian houses built by sea captains and cannery owners line the steep streets. Stop at the Flavel House, an 1885 Queen Anne home built for a river bar pilot, with its gardens and tall windows. Then walk into downtown for a slow dinner in one of the restored brick buildings near the water.
Where to eat and stop
- Breakfast · Coffee and pastry downtown — Commercial Street Why here: An easy start a short walk from the river.
- Lunch · Fish and chips by the river — The Riverwalk Why here: Fresh and casual with ship traffic in view.
- Dinner · A slow dinner downtown — A restored building near the river Why here: Local seafood; reserve ahead on summer weekends.
- Quick stop (snack): A brewery on the river — The Riverwalk Why here: A calm hour watching the ships go by.
Astoria is about two hours northwest of Portland on US Highway 30. Downtown and the Riverwalk are flat and easy on foot; the Column sits on a steep hill above town, so many couples drive up.
Where to stay
- A historic hotel downtown — Downtown Astoria has restored hotels in old brick and stone buildings a few blocks from the river, so the maritime museum, the Riverwalk and dinner are all an easy walk away.
- A riverfront hotel or inn — Hotels and inns along the Riverwalk sit right on the Columbia, some on old cannery piers, with views of the ships, the bridge and the sea lions from your window.
Dinner: A slow dinner downtown near the river, a short walk from your room.
Tomorrow: Head west to Fort Stevens for the old shipwreck on the beach and the military batteries, then visit the replica fort at Fort Clatsop.
Bad-weather plan
On a stormy day, spend longer at the maritime museum and the Flavel House, ride the riverfront trolley if it runs, and watch the weather roll across the river from a cafe window.
The maritime museum · The Riverwalk · The Astoria Column · Victorian streets
Good to know: Weather on the coast changes fast; carry a rain jacket and a warm layer even in summer, when mornings often start foggy and cool.
