The ferry from Mukilteo crosses to Clinton, at the south end of Whidbey Island, in about twenty minutes, and the village of Langley is a short drive north. Langley sits on a bluff above Saratoga Passage, with a small main street of galleries, bookshops and cafes and a long view over the water to Camano Island and the Cascades. Spend the first day slowly here, on foot in the village and on a quiet beach in the afternoon.
Walk First Street in Langley
Where to eat: Pick up coffee and a pastry from a bakery on First Street and carry it to a bench on the bluff.
Start on First Street, the short main street that runs along the top of the bluff. Walk it end to end and step into the galleries, the bookshop and the small shops, then stop at the little park at the end of Anthes Avenue for the view over Saratoga Passage. A wooden stairway leads down to Seawall Park and the small harbor below, where you can walk the shore and watch the boats.
Watch for gray whales
In spring, from about March into May, a small group of gray whales stops in the shallow water off Langley to feed on ghost shrimp, often close enough to hear them blow. Bring binoculars, stand at the railing on the bluff or walk the beach below, and watch for spouts and backs rolling in the passage. Out of whale season, the same view is good for seals, eagles and passing boats.
Meerkerk Gardens in the woods
Where to eat: Lunch at a cafe in Langley before the short drive north to the garden.
After lunch, drive about twenty minutes north to Meerkerk Gardens near Greenbank, a woodland garden with walking trails through tall firs and thousands of rhododendrons. Wander the paths slowly and look for the views out toward the water. The garden is at its peak from late April through May, when the rhododendrons bloom, but the quiet woodland walks are pleasant in any season.
Sunset at South Whidbey State Park
Late in the day, head to South Whidbey State Park on the west side of the island, where a trail drops through old forest to a long beach on Admiralty Inlet. Walk the shore, sit on the driftwood logs and watch the light go gold over the water and the Olympic Mountains. It is a calm, unhurried end to the first day before dinner back in the village.
Where to eat and stop
- Breakfast · Coffee and pastry in Langley — A bakery on First Street Why here: An easy start a short walk from your inn.
- Lunch · A village cafe — First Street, Langley Why here: Casual and close to the bluff, with a window on the water.
- Dinner · A seafood dinner in Langley — First Street or the harbor Why here: Penn Cove mussels and local fish; reserve ahead on summer weekends.
- Quick stop (snack): Ice cream on the bluff — First Street, Langley Why here: A sweet stop while you watch the water.
Langley is about fifteen minutes north of the Clinton ferry dock. Meerkerk Gardens is about twenty minutes north of Langley near Greenbank, and South Whidbey State Park is about twenty minutes west.
Where to stay
- A small inn in Langley — Langley's inns and guest rooms sit on or just off First Street, on the bluff above Saratoga Passage, so the shops, the beach stairs and dinner are all a short walk away.
- A cabin or cottage near the water — Rental cottages and cabins are scattered along the shore and in the woods all over the island, for couples who would rather cook breakfast and hear the water at night.
Dinner: A seafood dinner on First Street in Langley, a short walk from your inn.
Tomorrow: Drive north to Coupeville, the wharf on Penn Cove, the bluff trail at Ebey's Landing and the lighthouse at Fort Casey.
Bad-weather plan
If it rains, spend longer in the Langley galleries and bookshop, then drive to Meerkerk Gardens anyway; the woods are lovely in a soft rain.
First Street · Whales off the bluff · Meerkerk Gardens · Sunset at the state park
Good to know: Langley street parking is free but fills on summer weekends; there is extra parking a short walk from First Street.
