01Historic District · squares & river
Start at Chippewa Square — yes, the Forrest Gump bench square (the actual bench is in the Savannah History Museum, but the square is the star). From here, walk south through the grid: Wright Square (Tomochichi's memorial), Oglethorpe Square, then east to Columbia Square with the Davenport House Museum ($15 adult, kids' scavenger hunt). The squares are each about 2 blocks apart — the whole walk is under a mile.
Morning: Forsyth Park
Walk south on Bull Street (15 minutes from Chippewa) to Forsyth Park — 30 acres anchored by the 1858 cast-iron fountain. Go before 10 a.m. for empty paths and golden light through the moss. The Fragrant Garden (for the blind, but lovely for all) and the Confederate memorial anchor the north end. Grab coffee at Collins Quarter on Bull Street — the Australian-style flat whites are the city's best.
- Cathedral of St. John the Baptist — French Gothic, free entry, stunning interior; 5 minutes from Forsyth
- Mercer-Williams House — the Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil house; tours $15, on Monterey Square
- Jones Street — walk one block of "the prettiest street in America" (between Bull and Whitaker)
Afternoon: River Street
Head north to River Street — 2.5 miles of cobblestones along the Savannah River in former cotton warehouses. Take the free Savannah Belles Ferry across to Hutchinson Island and back for skyline views. The Waving Girl statue (Florence Martus waved at ships for 44 years) is at the east end. Shop the galleries, then climb the stone stairs (or take the elevator) back up the bluff to Bay Street.
Where to stay
Stay in the Historic District — everything above is walkable. The Marshall House (1851, on Broughton Street) has haunted-room lore and a great location (from $220/night). Kehoe House (1892, on Columbia Square) is the romantic pick with fireplaces. The Alida (on River Street) has rooftop river views and a pool. Budget: Thunderbird Inn — retro, fun, on MLK Jr. Boulevard, from $130/night. Dinner: The Olde Pink House (1771 mansion, Southern fine dining — book 2+ weeks ahead) or Vic's On the River for shrimp and grits with a view.
Where to eat
Day 1 is for settling in. Lunch: Zunzi's (the Conquistador sandwich) or Crystal Beer Parlor (historic, great burgers). Dinner is the main event — The Olde Pink House needs reservations 2+ weeks out; the fried chicken and she-crab soup justify it. Backup: Alligator Soul (adventurous, underground) or Savannah Seafood Shack for low-country boil.
Bad-weather plan
Rain? The Telfair Museums (Jepson Center + Telfair Academy, $30 combo) cover art and history. The Savannah History Museum (in the old train station) has the actual Forrest Gump bench. Prohibition Museum on Congress Street is surprisingly fun. Or do a historic home tour — they're all indoors.
Walk: ~3 miles total, all flat · Free: squares, Forsyth Park, River Street, ferry · Paid: Davenport House $15, Mercer-Williams $15
First-day rule: Savannah rewards slowness. Sit on a square bench. Watch the moss move. Don't rush to "see everything" — the city is the attraction.