
Base: a riad in the medina, three nights. Menara Airport is about 6 km from the medina; cars stop at the gates, so ask the riad to meet you and walk you in. Le Jardin Secret costs 100 MAD (about $11), with the tower another 40 MAD. Pace: easy: about 2 km on foot, all inside the medina, with a long rest on the riad roof before dinner.
Into the medina
Where to eat: breakfast at your riad if you land in the morning; many riads serve it on the roof.
Scooters, a donkey cart, a call to prayer somewhere above the roofs, and then a plain wooden door and silence. That is the first lesson of the medina: the life of the city is behind its walls. Let the riad show you to your room, drink the tea they bring, and sleep an hour if the flight was long. Ask for a hand-drawn map of the lanes from the door to the spice square; the medina is easy to get turned around in on the first day.
A late lunch above the spice square
Where to eat: Café des Épices, at 75 Rahba Lakdima, open daily 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., for a light lunch and mint tea on the roof.
Below you the spice square sells baskets, straw hats and pyramids of spices, and the roof is calm and warm in the afternoon sun. Order mint tea and watch it poured from high above the glass, a long silver ribbon. It is the easiest first sit-down in the city, and a good place to look at the map together.
Le Jardin Secret at 4 p.m.
Walk five minutes west along Rue Mouassine to Le Jardin Secret, a riad garden restored from a 19th-century palace. Water runs in narrow channels between orange trees, palms and cactus, the plaster is carved and the tiles are cool underfoot. Climb the tower for the view over the roofs to the Koutoubia minaret. In October it opens 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., with last entry 30 minutes before closing, and from November it closes at 5:30 p.m. Expert tip: come in the last two hours of the day, when the light turns gold on the walls and the groups have gone.
Dinner on Nomad’s roof
Where to eat: Nomad, at 1 Derb Aarjane off Rahba Kedima, open daily noon to 11 p.m., for modern Moroccan food on a rooftop terrace; book a table for the evening.
You are back on the same square, so there is no long walk through dark lanes after dinner. Order to share: salads, a tagine, something grilled, and a dessert with orange and cinnamon. The roof looks over the medina as the lights come on.
Jemaa el-Fnaa after dark
Walk about five minutes south to Jemaa el-Fnaa, the wide square, when it is at its fullest: smoke from the food stalls, drums and storytellers, orange-juice carts and, beyond it all, the Koutoubia minaret lit against the night. Walk the edge of it hand in hand, then go home through the lanes.
Where to eat and stop
- Breakfast · Breakfast at your riad — on the roof or in the courtyard if you land in the morning. Why here: A quiet first meal at the base before the lanes.
- Lunch · Café des Épices — 75 Rahba Lakdima; daily 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., table bookings from 5 p.m. Why here: Mint tea and a light lunch on a roof five minutes from Le Jardin Secret.
- Dinner · Nomad — 1 Derb Aarjane, off Rahba Kedima; daily noon to 11 p.m. Why here: Modern Moroccan food on the same square, so no long walk back in the dark.
- Quick stop (other): Le Jardin Secret — Rue Mouassine; 100 MAD, tower 40 MAD; October 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Why here: A restored riad garden at the heart of the medina.
Menara Airport → the medina gates: about 15 minutes by car. Café des Épices → Le Jardin Secret: about 5 minutes on foot. Rahba Kedima → Jemaa el-Fnaa: about 5 minutes on foot.
Where to stay
- A riad inside the medina walls, near Rahba Kedima or Mouassine — three nights; ask the riad to meet you at the nearest gate.
Dinner: Nomad, on the spice square.
Tomorrow: the Saadian Tombs at opening, two palaces and a hammam for two.
Bad-weather plan
Rain in the medina? It is rare but slippery; the covered souks stay dry, and Le Jardin Secret and a long tea under cover fill the afternoon.
Stay: Medina riad · Anchor: Le Jardin Secret · book the hammam ahead
Good to know: Le Jardin Secret closes at 5:30 p.m. from November, and last entry is 30 minutes before closing.




























