Marfa is a small ranching town of about 1,700 people on a high grassland plateau in far West Texas, at roughly 4,700 feet. It sits about three hours from El Paso and Midland, so arrive by early afternoon if you can. The first day stays in town on foot, with the courthouse, a handful of galleries and shops, a slow coffee and a long sunset over the open plain.
The Presidio County Courthouse
Where to eat: Coffee and a pastry at a cafe on Highland Avenue before you set out.
Start at the pink and cream Presidio County Courthouse, finished in 1886, at the top of Highland Avenue. Its domed tower rises over the low town and you can see it from almost every street. Walk around the grounds, look up at the statue on the dome and take in the wide, quiet main street running south toward the railroad tracks. It is a calm first look at an old cattle town that turned into an art town.
Walk Highland Avenue and the side streets
Where to eat: Lunch at a small cafe or food truck near Highland Avenue.
Walk south down Highland Avenue and into the side streets, where adobe buildings, old storefronts and quiet houses hold galleries, bookshops, clothing stores and small studios. Many places keep short hours and close a day or two each week, so look in where the door is open and save the rest for later. The town is small, flat and easy to cover, which makes it pleasant to wander slowly as a pair.
Ballroom Marfa and the gallery rooms
In the afternoon, step into Ballroom Marfa, a contemporary art space in a former dance hall on San Antonio Street, and then look into a few of the smaller gallery rooms around town. Shows change through the year and range from painting to sound and film. Check hours on the day, since many spaces open only Thursday through Sunday, and leave time to sit in the shade between stops.
Sunset on the edge of town
Where to eat: A drink on a hotel patio downtown as the sky turns dark.
As the light drops, drive or walk to the edge of town and watch the sun set over the grassland and the low mountains to the west. The sky in Marfa is huge, and on a clear evening the colors move from gold to deep pink to violet. Head back for an unhurried dinner downtown, then step outside after dark to see how many stars show above the quiet streets.
Where to eat and stop
- Breakfast · Coffee and pastry on Highland Avenue — A cafe downtown Why here: An easy start a short walk from the courthouse.
- Lunch · A food truck or small cafe — Near Highland Avenue Why here: Casual, local and close to the galleries.
- Dinner · A slow dinner downtown — Highland Avenue and nearby streets Why here: Small restaurants with short menus; reserve ahead on weekends.
- Quick stop (snack): A patio drink at dusk — A hotel downtown Why here: A calm hour before dinner.
Marfa is about three hours by car from El Paso or Midland, on US Highway 90 and US Highway 67. Downtown is flat and compact, so park once near the courthouse and walk everything on the first day.
Where to stay
- A historic hotel downtown — Marfa has a few historic and restored hotels on and near Highland Avenue, a short walk from the courthouse, the galleries and the restaurants, so you can leave the car parked all evening.
- A small inn or guest house — Small inns and guest houses on the quiet residential streets give you a porch, a garden and dark skies at night, with downtown about ten minutes away on foot.
Dinner: An unhurried dinner downtown, a short walk from your room.
Tomorrow: Visit the Chinati Foundation's large art spaces, see Judd's quiet rooms in town, then drive out to Prada Marfa and the Marfa Lights viewing area.
Bad-weather plan
On a windy or stormy afternoon, spend longer inside Ballroom Marfa and the bookshops, rest at your room, and save the sunset walk for a clearer evening.
The courthouse · Highland Avenue · Ballroom Marfa · Sunset over the grassland
Good to know: Marfa sits high and dry; carry water, wear sun protection by day and pack a warm layer, because nights can be cool even after a hot afternoon.
